Timber paling fences are also known as treated timber fencing due to the fact that the pine timber is chemically treated. The chemical treatment is called CCA which stands for “chromated copper arsenate”, a combination of chromium, copper, and arsenic. The treatment is quite safe for humans and animals and is only harmful in you ingest the timber or inhale smoke if the timber is being burnt.
The chromium acts as a binder to hold the solution together. The copper provides protection against bacteria and fungi that can rot the timber. The arsenic provides protection against insects such as lyctid borers and termites. The solution as a whole seems to provide some weather resistance and can help paint stick to the surface.
To ensure the longevity of your fence, protect your fence by sealing and painting it. Make sure to not use harsh chemicals or metal scrapers which can damage the integrity of the timber. Also remove any soil, debris, or objects on the fence as they too, over time, can cause rot and damage.
Unprotected timber exposed to the weather will fade to a silvergrey colour and could distort and develop splitting and surface checking. Where this is not desirable, various finishes can be applied to provide protection against these “weathering” effects of sun and rain. The following can be applied:
Good quality, light coloured Paints provide the best level of protection. Note: Low quality, dark coloured paints, and finishes that only provide a film over the timber surface are not recommended. These products can accelerate decay.
Clear Finishes may provide only short-term protection and require frequent re-application.
Stains provide reasonably good protection depending upon the amount of pigment and degree of exposure. Paints, stains and clear finishes shall be applied in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions. Note: Where preservative treated timber is used, the compatibility of the selected coating should be checked.
There are a number of different timber profiles that you can use to create the look and style to compliment your home. The most common profiles include the Windsor, Club, ½ round Spade, and Square/Flat Top. Other profiles include Acorn, Arrow, Bishop, Oval, Spear, Candle, Paddle and Sawtooth. These profiles are available upon request as they’re availability, quantity and cost will need to be determined prior to ordering.
These profiles can be used to create the perfect look. Not only can you use a variety of different profiles, but you can also construct the fence in a variety of different ways. This includes standard paling flat top fence, butted together paling fence, 15mm gapped paling fence, 25mm gapped paling fence, lapped paling fence, and lapped and capped fence, good neighbour fence, and colonial fence.
Butt Together Timber Paling Fence
Standard Flat Top Gap Timber Paling Fence
Over Lapped Timber Paling Fence
Over Lapped and Capped Timber Pailing Fence
Good Neighbour Timber Paling Fence
Colonial Timber Paling Fence
There is no Australian Standard or other grading requirements for fencing timber and the quality and cost can vary between different suppliers.
Timber sold for fencing could contain certain natural characteristics (knots, gum veins, minor insect damage, want, wane, etc.) and some movement (cupping, twisting etc.) can be expected. This timber quality is generally acceptable for domestic fencing situations.
Where a higher than normal appearance or performance is required for fencing, a higher quality timber should be specified. For posts and railings, structurally graded timber (e.g. cypress F5, hardwood F11, treated pine F5 or MGP10) could be used. For palings the following limitations could be specified:
- No loose or unsound knots;
- No decay or insect galleries;
- No heart or pith gum, latex or resin pockets not to extend from one surface to another; and
- Sound knots not to exceed 50% of face width.
Note: Higher quality material will be at a higher cost than normal fencing timber.
Standard treated pine sizes available in stock are:
Standard Palings : 18000mm x 100mm x 15mm, 1200mm x 100mm x 15mm, 1800mm x 75mm x 15mm & 1200mm x 75mm x 15mm
Rails : 100mm x 38mm x 4.8m
Posts : round 2.4m x 100mm, square (available on order) 2.4m x 100mm x 100mm
Our fencing materials include:
- Galvanised steel gate frames including hinges
- Double gates including one drop bolt
- Fixings including galvanised batten screws and coil nails
- Bags of Cement
At Dog Gone Fencing we are here to help you with your DIY fencing projects. We can help organise all the materials you require to build your timber paling fence. We can measure exactly what you need, order the exact materials and deliver them to your home ready for you to install.
Below is a checklist of considerations you may need to address. Each situation will vary so you must be vigilant and ensure that you have consulted with an experienced Fencing Company, such as Dog Gone Fencing, to assist you with your individual needs.
Use our Site Plan to accurately design and order the materials you require.
Discuss your needs with one of our qualified staff to place an order and ensure your materials will arrive in time for your project.
If your new fence is a boundary fence that you share with a neighbour, ensure that you have informed them of your intentions. You can use our “Good Neighbour Policy” as a guide to help you.
Consult with a surveyor if your boundary lines are in any way unclear. Just because there is an existing fence, does not mean it was constructed on the correct boundary line.
Ensure your new fence meet any approvals required or certificates of compliance.
Dial-Before-You-Dig! Call 1100 to check for all underground services.
DIY Installation Guide
Step 1 – Setting Out
Mark out where you intend to build the fence with a string line, timber pegs and line marking paint. Position the line to indicate when the front of the posts will be. Mark out along the line with paint each post at a maximum of 2.4m apart. This distance suite a rail length of 4.8m allowing the rail to span across three posts. If your fence is not perfectly divisible by 2.4m, modify the distance between posts ensuring they are even and no more than 2.4m. For example, on a 9m span of a fence, allow 2.25m between post centers.
Step 2 – Excavation
Post holes should be dug 700mm deep using a post hole borer, square mouth digging spade or post hole digger. Check the position of the string line regularly to ensure the post holes are square and in line. Remove all loose material from the holes. The width of the hole should leave at least a 75mm gap between the post position and edge of the hole. If using a 100mm square post, the hole must be minimum 250mm x 250mm square.
Step 3 – Positioning the Posts
Post sizes for various height fences are shown in the table below. Position the end of corner post to within 1mm of the string line. Spend some times adjusting the post height by removing or adding drainage gravel as required. Securely brand the posts in position making sure they are plumb in both directions.
Attach a second string line across the top of the end or corner posts to act as a height guide and to aid in getting perfectly vertical posts. Although this should be achieved using a spirit level.
Brace and plumb posts in both directions.
Step Four – Concreting the Posts
Before you concrete the posts, check again that they’re all in line, plumb, accurately spaces and securely braced. Remove the string lines and carefully shovel concrete (proportions 1 part cement to 5 parts concrete blend), into each post hole taking care not to disturb the hole or post. Make sure the concrete is well distributed around the post and not under by tamping with a piece of waster timber. Fill the holes to ground level, sloping the concrete away from the timber post to prevent water pooling. Allow adequate time to dry before moving on to step five.
Step Five – Fixing the Rails
Fences up to 1200mm in height require only 2 rails, whereas fences over this height require at least three rails. Fix the bottom rail at a maximum of 150mm above finished ground level and the top rail 150mm below the top of the finished post height.
There are 3 methods for fixing rails. Rails can be (a) face-fixed to posts, (b) cut between posts or (c) checked in to the rails. The most effective method will depend on your carpentry skill, we recommend either method A or C.
Prior to installing the rails, it is recommended the posts or primed and painted to make application easier. This is particularly important if you have checked in the rails. Ensure you use quality galvanised fixings such as batten screws and bolts to ensure longevity and strength.
Step Six – Fixing the Palings
At your corner post, fix one paling at your finished height, then move to the other end of your fence and repeat. Run a string line between the finished height of each paling and pull tight. Attach the rest of your palings using the string line as a guide. A 1800mm high fence with three rails will require 6 nails (2 offset into each rail).
A simple method for even spacing is to use an off-cut of a paling. Turn it on its side, butt it up against the fixed paling and push the next paling hard against it and fix. This will give you a 15mm gap. Alternatively, you may prefer a tighter look and butt each paling up against its neighbour. In this case, make sure you consider the wind loading that may be present on the fence.
Other layouts may include overlapping the palings or a ‘good neighbour’ style with palings offset down both sides of the fence.
- As soon as the timber arrives is should be stacked level and flat at least 150mm off the ground.
- Allow a 40-50mm gap between the bottom of the paling and ground level.
- Painting your timber fence will ensure it lasts, unpainted fences will warp and deteriorate in a short time.
- All fixings (bolts, nails, and screws) must be hot-dipped galvanised to prevent corrosion caused by the chemical treatment in the timber and weather.
- Regularly tighten bolts and screws as timber ages and shrinks over time.
All of our work comes with a 12-month warranty and the products we used are backed by the manufacturer’s warranty. The manufacturer’s warranty will differ from supplier to supplier and will vary on the product. Please feel free to contact us directly if you have any questions in relation to your warranty.